Camimade patterns

Earlier this year I met Camille of Camimade patterns.

‘Camimade is an independent sewing pattern company, designing minimalist and timeless sewing patterns, on the lookout for a more contemporary sewing.’

Clairesews had organised a fabric shopping day at Goldhawk Road while I was visiting London and that’s where I met Camille. Thank you Claire for a wonderful day/s as we did venture to the V&A Museum the following week.

Back to the Camimade story.

Cami was looking at gorgeous silks as we were fabric shopping and it was only after I started to follow her instagram account that I saw how lovely her designs were. Then there was the call out to pattern test so I agreed to pattern test.

Feuillage: shirt and shirt dress pattern:

This is a relaxed style pattern and it’s versatile – shirt or shirt dress option.

p1120747

Here’s the shirt flat lay style.

img_3393

What you can clearly see is the finishing details of the split sleeve. During testing Cami made some adjustments to the pattern and it now fits together easily.

img_3347

I made both the feulliage shirt to go with the Ecorce pants. Go to Cami’s website to see her beautiful photos. She looks stunning in these pieces.

p1120749

My photos are my usual look. Nothing special but super comfortable.

The front vents in the shirt version I made are best left closed. That’s my personal preference. When I wore this shirt with the front vents open I didn’t feel comfortable. Now I do with the front vents closed. I added a strip of black powermesh to sew these vents shut. Powermesh doesn’t fray so it was a good fabric choice.

Ecorce: Trousers and capri pants

This pattern is high waist and semi-fitted – perfect for humid Summer days in Sydney.

p1120752

These are super easy to wear and a bit bigger than I should wear because I lost some weight at the time. The winter weight loss was intentional.

p1120754

Oh my goodness the back vent at the hem is awesome. Maybe because it makes these super easy to wear from a practical point of view.

p1120751

The fabric I’ve used is very stiff hence the bulges you can see on this side view photo. This was a test version and I wear these pants for housework. The wearable toiles do get used.

What I love about these trousers are the leg shaping. There is room for my cyclist thighs to I don’t have to make any further fit adjustments.

 

The usual pattern adjustments I did make was to lower the back crotch and shorten the front crotch. That’s just how I’m shaped and I’m so pleased I learnt how to make these changes.

Once I tried these on again after losing a few kilos, I unpicked the waistband and easily took out the fullness that I had gained during the Winter months. That’s what made me realise this is a good pants pattern to have when your weight fluctuates so much. The seamlines are great for sizing this pattern up or down.

 

A couple more

30b57910-0260-4ea6-b486-3a0f368d30a7

Once I make a pattern work, I’ll use is a few times more. In this case I made New Look 6351 a couple more times after the initial denim jacket.

grey-suit-fun-1

This jacket worked well.

This African wax print was my next jacket. I love the colours and the print is on a black background so it works with the denim pants I’d made last month.

linda-faye-back

Then it was time to test out a french style white-ish version.

img_3492

Here’s the white jacket as a work in progress. It matches with my workhorse Janome sewing machine.

img_3561

Right now I’ve still got to photograph it worn. The deadstock fabric has very little weight so it needed to be lined. I think this will be a handy ‘topper’ for Summer nights.

Thanks for reading.

 

Closing the gap

New Look 6351 was the key pattern I planned to use for this month’s post using Minerva fabrics and notions.

grey-suit-fun.jpg

I chose a grey black chambray denim for both the jacket and pants.

Yes I’m somewhat obsessed with finding the perfect jacket to make that elusive French style jacket so the jacket in New Look 6351 has a v-neckline using the front jacket pieces.

Jacket adjustments:

Adjustments or tweaking the pattern to fit is my favourite part of creating clothes. Ready to wear is designed on a block that’s not me so I love being able to make a pattern fit me. Now the pattern doesn’t have to be super fitted. In real life clothes need to allow me to move around easily and not cling to me.

It would be terrible if I made lots of adjustments; had a top fit me snuggly; and then when I get in the car to drive somewhere the fabric across the back of my shoulders rips. Sewing should bring you joy and not rivers of tears.

1: Sway back adjustment

Admittedly, my Spring sway back adjustment is always less than my Winter sway back adjustment. On this occasion, I took out 3cm along the centre back seam at the waist. Then I added this amount at the centre back hem and graded this to 0 at the side seams.

grey-suit-back

2. Shoulder seam length

I love the dropped shoulder look that you see in fashion. My shoulder shaping doesn’t work well with dropped shoulders so I had to remove 2cm off the shoulder seam length so the sleeves sit nicely on my shoulders.

3-side-front

3. Forward shoulder adjustment

This adjustment is easy. I move the shoulder points forward by taking out 1.5 cm from the front shoulder seam and adding 1.5 cm to the back shoulder seam. It’s not much of a change but this makes the shoulders sit at the right spot.

4. Sleeve length

For my needs, I wanted long sleeves as I added 5 cm to the sleeve hem.

grey-suit-side

5. Lining

I love, love, love lined jackets. This jacket is very easy to line. Use the front side, back and sleeve pattern as your lining pieces. It’s that easy to line this jacket.

5-jacket-lined

Ah. One point to consider. The back lining piece needs to be cut on the fold with 3cm fold. This gives you ‘wiggle room’ when you’re wearing the jacket.

It’s also lots of fun to choose stunning prints to line otherwise basic work jackets.

6: Pockets

Everything is better with pockets.

6-pocket-piece

This pattern has a pocket pattern for the pants view so I used this patter to create the pockets for this jacket.

7-jacket-pocket-finished

Positioning them was a challenge. I made sure these pockets were 1/3 on the front panel and 2/3 on the side panel.

grey-suit-pockets

Trouser pattern

I prewashed the fabric before I cut out the jacket. The trouser pattern has gathers at the waist.

If this denim weighed less, I would have made the pants in this pattern. I ended up using my TNT Burda 7746 pants pattern.

9-pants-front-close-up

The pockets on this pattern are darted on the waist and sit nicely against my body.

10-pants-pocket

Denim as lovely as this will retain its shape and I’ve been wearing these trousers to work at least once a week.

The leg shape of this pattern works well with this denim so I’m really happy that I’ve been able to pair these together.

grey-suit-ace

If it fits – wear it. That’s what you’re able to do when you sew your own clothes.

Thanks so much Minerva for keeping my work wardrobe looking so sharp!!!