Pad stitching

The first photo is a close view of pad stitching from the outside.

The next picture shows the stitching from the inside.

You start sewing from the outside arch and make your way into the centre, and that’s pretty much it.

To add more body to the collar, add another pieces of interfacing, the shape of the arch.

The third picture shows how I’ve drawn a faint arch on the inside of the under collar in a washable pen. I suppose that the arch can be drawn with a soft pencil, because in reality, you’ll never see the markings.

The last picture shows how the arch is placed on the under collar and the arch is placed between the notches.

By the way, you can tell that I’m still learning how to align the pictures and text. Round 1 – blogger:(

Jacket #3 – M4596

Trying to be photogenic
With DH away most of last week, I had time to play with this jacket. The days started to warm up last week so I freaked out and decided to finish this jacket asap.
Today it’s cold again so it was great to wear the jacket, after finishing the hand stitched hems after breakfast.
Yes I need a life.

The fabric is a soft thick woollen so the sleeves were easy to manipulate into the jacket body.
I’ve used sunsilky lining – my favourite – because it performs really well.
I’ve made this jacket in linen but on seeing the basic jacket basted together, before adding the sleeves, it was big and bulky.
side view
The body was 5cm too long at the front so I snipped away until it sat just above the crotch line.
Back view with additional darts
I’ve added in two additional darts in the back and the back sits really well. 
If I taper the front darts, the side pockets will sit open and not close properly.
You can see the pocket lining from the back in this picture.
The fabric is interfaced throughout with armoweft to help keep its shape.
The collar has pad stitching so that it sits up at the back neck.
I’ve resewed in the sleeves because they just wrong – too far down my arms.
I did use shoulder pads.
Now the sewn-in ribbon thread was the only way I could make the front opening sit properly. I initially used the ribbon on the collar and I realised this was the only method I could use to sew through a four bulky layers and avoid break more sewing machine needles.
I didn’t break any sewing machine needles this time. My fingers however are killing me.

The fabric is a remnant from a coat I made at least four years ago and I still can’t recall where I bought the fabric from.

If I attempt this jacket again, and I will, I’ll use zippers on the side pocket to make the jacket more figure hugging. I did a jacket stash count and there are four more jackets in the pipeline, but once the weather hots up again, they’re going into the “freezer.”
front view

What’s cocktail dressing

DN had her 21st last weekend and my dilemma was the usual, “what to wear?”.

I had a few ideas in my head but what resulted was a TNT dress in blue shot silk. The fabric was a remnant pieces so I doubt it was real silk. It was cost $3/m.

The fit was good but I will lower the neckline because it’s too high for the v to be elongating.

Simplicity 9747 is the pattern I used. It has french darts at the front and I was able to take out some of the fullness under the dart point.

The back darts were added in after I put the dress together. I can now make it fit better without it looking too wide.

I love using invisible zips for dresses. They are just too easy.

The blue neck edge was my first play with the neckline.

This is the finished version with beading. You can see that the v neckline is above the bust point so it’s a bit too conservative for me. All I will do for the next wear is drop it a couple of inches and rearrange the beading.

So since the party, I think cocktail dress for 21 year olds means = no jeans an t-shirt.


We had a quiet day in after actually going out on a Saturday night, so I cooked.

The secret action was to cover it with alfoil at the end and let it cook. I took it off the heat before the rice burned, which is a no-no, so next time I’ll leave it to burn a bit around the edges.

Outfit in action

Sorry about the pic qualities but I’ve snaffled these from DN’s page so you can see that I did wear both the dress and jacket at her 21st.
We all had a great time and the youngest in the family made it through to midnight on the dancefloor. It’s a family trait.
The jacket is chanel no 2. I’ll put up the blue dress shortly, so you can see the bit of detail around the shoulders. Bothe are made from remnant pieces.

The pictures I owe you – v2980

Here’s how I tested out the neckline. Yes I wore it over another top so I could see where the neckline sat, so I would feel comfortable and not self conscious.

This is the finished top with a bit of sewing to keep the bolero piece sitting over the bra straps underneath. I will rejig this adjustment so that there’s no billowing fabric at the sleeve seamline.

Here’s how I wore it to the Rugby Union Club to watch Bledisloe #2.
The back view shows me that I need to add some room to stop the stretch lines. That and some upper body work would be a better solution.
Here’s how I wore Chanel #1 on Jeans for Genes days for work. The top underneath is Kwik Sew 3378 in a dark raspberry two-way stretch poly knit. The knit top and the jacket don’t crease and the top is an easy layer to wear.
By the time DH took this photo, I’d worked a full day, travelled for 2 hours to meet up with him in Canberra and we were ready to go to Dixon to our favourite Vietnamese place.

I can feel a cocktail dress in the air. My niece has her 21st bday party on Saturday night and I do have things to wear but this challenge is in my head and DH is away one night this week, so hopefully a design and fabric will surface in my stash tomorrow. Maybe. I need sleep.